Heinkel Brake System Part 4- Reassembly

Now that you've inspected and rebuilt items as needed, it’s time to put your Heinkel / Trojan brakes back together. This part is easy, especially if you work slowly and methodically.

Heinkel Master Cylinders and DOT3 Fluid

Let’s go through the components:

1. Master Cylinder
2. Wheel Cylinders (2)
3. Brake Shoes (2 each wheel)
4. Brake Shoe Springs (2 each wheel, one big and one small)
5. Brass Brake Line Distribution Block
6. Metal Brake Lines (3)
7. Rubber Brake Lines (2)
8. Bleeder Valves (2)
9. Bleeder Valve Covers (2)
10. Rubber Hose Springs (2)
11. Brake Adjustment Hole Caps (4)
12. Various Copper Gaskets (2 on each wheel hub and 2 on main master cylinder)
13. Brake Light Switch
14. Small cotter pin (2)

Heinkel Kabine brake parts: rubber hoses, metal brake lines, brake shoes, miscellaneous bits

Tools You’ll Need:

1. 14mm wrench (or 13mm) for front master cylinder bolt)
2. 17mm wrench, and 17 mm socket (or 2 17mm wrenches)
3. 10mm wrench
4. Teflon Tape

I started by making sure everything fits and all the attachment points are usable. If you've replaced floor areas in the wheel well you might be missing the attachment point for the transition from rubber to metal hoses. These are little L-shaped brackets as shown in the photo below. You can either weld on new ones or, if you've already painted, rivet on a piece. I did that on my car and it has held for two years.

Riveted Brake Line Holder in Heinkel Wheel Well

I propose the following installation order. I’ve also added notes and hints where appropriate.

Install wheel cylinders, They are attached with two flat screws. Install brake bleeders at this time, using Teflon tape on the threads (don't cover the end hole).

Install the master cylinder into the body of the car. Attach the brake piston rod to the connecting piece with a clevis pin on either end and secure with a cotter pins.

Master Cylinder Installed- Bolt in Front, Bolt in Back, Piston Rod Attached to Brake Pedal Connector

Install rubber hoses from wheel cylinder to transition point to the metal brake lines. What is important here is to make sure the banjo connection on the wheel cylinder end does not block the adjustment holes in the backing plate. Otherwise you will not be able to adjust the brakes. There are two copper gaskets. The largest one goes directly under the nut, and the smaller one goes under the banjo. There's a difference of opinion on whether or not you should reuse them, I've reused them and they haven't leaked, but if they look bent or distorted I suggest replacing them.

Brake Installation From Backing Plate Side. Note How Banjo Bolt Does Not Block Adjustment Hole. Bleeder valve does not have little rubber cap on it yet.

Install the brake light switch onto the distribution block. Depending on the switch you’ve purchased you will need to add wire connectors. I used a VW bug switch with screw-down connectors, so I had to add fork terminals to my electrical harness.

Install the steel brake lines.  The will probably not line up. Use your tubing bender to gently bend them to align with the distribution block. The club brake lines have a loop in them that you can use to get the right alignment.

Install the brake shoes onto the wheel backing plate.  Before doing this turn the brake adjusters all the way in so you have the maximum adjustment room. I find the easiest way to install the brake shoes is to attach the springs  (The springs should be mounted behind the shoes as shown, with the big spring closest to the wheel cylinder), mount one end of each shoe into the brake adjuster, then pull them apart and snap them on to the brake pivot.

Completed Heinkel Brake Installation at Wheel. Note that Brake Springs are Behind the Shoes

 You're done with installation! In the final section we'll cover bleeding and brake adjustment.